Bridging:  The preferred way to run a Harley Rake on a skid steer is to bridge the skid steer onto the gauge wheels of the rake. By tilting the rakes wheels down with the skid steer's bucket tilt control, you will raise the front wheels of the skid steer of the ground, and become bridged between the back wheels of the loader, and the caster wheels of the rake.

• The skid steer's wheels base is nearly doubled, for a smoother grade
• The front wheels of the skid steer cannot "skid" through the seedbed, or through existing turf that you might have to travel over. Virtually turning the skid steer into a "zero turn" loader.
• You get exceptional grading, because the rake operates inside the effective wheelbase of the skid steer. If you drive over a mound, the wheels go up and over it, and then the tooth roller comes along to shave off the hgh part and push the material into a low spot. What's more, there's no need to continually adjust the depth: you just drive through the site, and the grade is set. Similar to motor grader, with it's wheels on front and back and blade in the middle)
• It makes operating the rake very easy. All the depth adjustments can be made using only the tilt function, the arms can be left alone. If you tilt forward, you tilting onto the gauge wheels, which will raise the tooth roller further out the soil. If you tilt back, the tooth roller goes further into the soil. This can be tricky to get used to, since it's backward from what you're used to. Usually, when you tilt out, you expect the skid steer's bucket to go deeper. When you bridge onto the gauge wheels of the Harley Rake it actually raises the rake, making it dig shallower. Don't worry, you'll get used to this quickly
• There are times, though, when bridging onto the gauge wheels isn't the best think to do. For instance, when it's really wet, you may need to have all 4 wheels of the skid steer on the ground to get enough traction. If this is the case, just make sure that you have the rake level from front to back, with pressure on the skid steer wheels, the tooth roller and the gauge wheels. Or if you are working on an incline you will want all of the skid steer tires firmly on the ground to keep you from rotating down hill.

Mill and Fill pass: If a site is reasonably level, you should start with a digging pass, where the rake is down in the dirt (gauge will arms are parallel to the ground) cutting at about 2" optimum depth (our initial wheel setting, determined this). Once you’ve set the rake at its digging depth, try to lave it alone! If you change the rake's digging depth, you'll change the grade. Just drive over the site, letting the rake cut material from the high spots, and carry it into the low spots. (for optimum seedbed, sub-base facture patterns, work with full throttle, but slow travel speed)

Back-Up / Chip-Up In extremely hard soils, you could find that the rake has trouble penetrating the dirt. If this is the case, it helps to travel over the site with the drum spinning in the same direction as the tractor or skid steer. (for instance, backing up in a skid steer, and letting the teeth kick material away from you). Instead of cutting into the dirt, you let the teeth pound it like small hammers. This action will chip out a decent amount of loose material, and will also fracture the soil base to the point where you will get much better penetration with your next pass. This also works well in wet cohesive soils.